How Much Does It Cost to Winterize a Sprinkler System? (And Can Pros Guarantee Freeze Protection?)
By Turfrain
Short answer: winterizing a sprinkler system typically costs 60–120 per visit, or about $7–12 per zone in most areas. Pros dramatically lower freeze risk, but no one can guarantee absolute freeze protection because weather swings and hidden system issues happen. Reputable companies back their workmanship and will return if a line wasn’t properly cleared.
What you’ll learn from this blog
Real-world pricing: total and average cost per zone
Whether professionals can guarantee freeze protection (and what they do guarantee)
What affects your winterization cost
What a proper sprinkler blowout includes, step by step
How to save money without risking frozen pipes
The quick math homeowners really want
Typical total: 60–120 for most average-size lawns.
Average cost per zone: $7–12 per zone.
Sample scenarios:
6 zones: about 70–100
10 zones: about 90–140
15 zones: about 120–180
Minimum trip fee alert: Many companies have a minimum charge (often 60–85), so very small systems may still pay that flat rate.
Regional reality check: High-cost metros or urgent, last-minute visits near the first hard freeze can push prices to 120–180+.
Here’s the honest take: even top-tier pros can’t promise absolute freeze protection. Weather can be wild, and a tiny low spot or trapped elbow of water can freeze like an ice cube in a straw. That said, hiring a pro dramatically reduces the risk. What most reputable companies do guarantee:
Workmanship: If a zone wasn’t fully cleared, they’ll come back and make it right.
Clear instructions: How to keep valves and the backflow assembly positioned for winter.
What they usually can’t guarantee:
Extreme or early cold snaps after a late-season watering by the homeowner
Pre-existing system issues (damaged valves, sagging lines, hidden leaks)
Backflow assemblies or pipes in uninsulated, exposed locations during deep freezes
A quick metaphor: think of winterization like wearing a great coat in a storm. It keeps you warm and dry most days, but a surprise blizzard with sideways wind? You still take precautions—like a scarf and hat—because nature’s gonna nature.
What drives the price up (or down)
Number of zones: More zones = more time and compressor run-time.
Accessibility: Buried boxes, tricky backflow locations, locked gates, or long hose runs add labor.
Backflow type and location: Exposed PVBs or RPZs on exterior walls need careful draining and positioning.
Timing: Peak rush in late fall costs more; early-bird scheduling often saves money.
Travel distance: Rural or far-edge service areas may add a trip fee.
What a proper winterization actually includes (step-by-step)
Think of compressed air like a leaf blower for your pipes—powerful, but controlled. A thorough visit typically looks like this:
Shut off the irrigation main water supply.
Open drain points and relief valves on the backflow preventer to release pressure.
Connect a professional air compressor and set a safe PSI (commonly 50–80 PSI for residential systems; never “blast”).
Blow out each zone individually until mist becomes a light vapor and then air, pausing between passes to avoid overheating heads and valves.
Verify the backflow assembly is properly drained and left in the correct winter position (often at a 45-degree or manufacturer-recommended setting).
Set the controller to Rain/Off or install a winter schedule that won’t run.
Call out any weak heads, stuck valves, or leaks spotted during blowout so you can fix them before spring.
DIY note: Small portable compressors usually can’t sustain adequate CFM. Over-pressurizing to compensate can crack components. If you hear a voice in your head saying, “One more PSI won’t hurt,” that’s your sign to stop.
Save without freezing up
Book early: Schedule before the first forecasted hard freeze for better pricing.
Bundle with neighbors: Group appointments often knock down trip fees.
Prep before the pro arrives: Clear valve boxes, unlock gates, know where your shutoff is.
Add a backflow cover: An inexpensive insulated jacket helps on those freak 10°F nights.
Set a reminder: Put “sprinkler blowout” on your calendar every fall, just like swapping smoke-detector batteries.
Mini-FAQs homeowners ask out loud
How late can I winterize? Ideally before the first hard freeze (below 28°F for several hours). After that, it’s a race against ice.
Is sprinkler blowout worth it? Yes—one cracked backflow assembly can cost 250–600+, which dwarfs a 60–120 service.
Do I need to winterize drip lines? If they’re above ground or shallow, yes. Many pros include them; ask to be sure.
Will you guarantee I won’t get freeze damage? No absolute guarantee is realistic, but a professional blowout plus an insulated backflow cover is the best defense.
Wrap-up and a friendly nudge Winterizing your sprinkler system doesn’t have to be a nail-biter. Expect about 60–120 total—or $7–12 per zone—and remember that while no one can promise zero freeze risk, a pro blowout stacks the odds in your favor. Want a no-surprises quote and a quick, careful visit? Contact Us at Turfrain, and we’ll get you on the schedule before the frost shows up.
