Is It Too Late in March to Winterize My Sprinkler System? DIY vs Pro, Plus Real Costs
By Turfrain
In most cold climates, March is late for winterizing a sprinkler system. If you skipped it, damage may have already occurred, but a late-season blowout can still help if freezes linger. DIY works if you’ve got the right compressor and know-how; otherwise, hire a pro. Expect 60–150 for professional winterization.
What you’ll learn from this blog
What to do in March if your sprinklers weren’t winterized
DIY vs professional winterization: gear, risks, and when to call in help
Real-world costs for sprinkler winterization and common repairs
Quick FAQs on timing, PSI, backflow preventers, and spring startup
Start Here: Is March Too Late—and What Should You Do Right Now? Short answer: usually, yes—winterization is ideally done in late fall, before the first hard freeze. But if your area still has freezing nights ahead, a late blowout can reduce further risk. If it’s warming up for good, focus on a careful spring check-up.
Think of it like leaving a garden hose outside during a cold snap. If it froze, damage might already be done—but you can still prevent more trouble if cold isn’t finished. If your region is mild (think Zone 8–10), you may not need winterization at all. In colder zones, March is damage-assessment-and-prep season.
DIY vs Pro: Which Way Should You Go?
If you’re confident with tools and have the right compressor, DIY can work. If not, hire a pro. Buried lines, backflow preventers, and zone valves can be finicky—and expensive to replace if something goes wrong.
A quick personal note: my neighbor once figured, “It’s March; we’re fine,” and ran a test cycle. A cracked backflow (hidden behind shrubs) turned his patio into a splash pad. He spent more on repairs than a decade of pro winterizations.
DIY basics (only if you’re comfortable and it’s still freezing at night)
Turn off water to the irrigation system at the main shutoff.
Open manual drain valves if you have them.
If blowing out lines:
Use a portable air compressor that can deliver steady airflow.
Set pressure to 50–60 PSI for most residential systems (never exceed 80 PSI).
Connect to the system’s blowout port downstream of the backflow preventer.
Run one zone at a time until mist turns to a light vapor; 1–2 minutes per zone is typical.
Don’t run air continuously—short cycles prevent heat buildup in valves and heads.
Leave the controller off, with valves closed, until risk of freeze is gone.
When hiring a professional makes sense
You don’t own a suitable compressor or fittings.
Your system includes a sensitive backflow preventer (RPZ, PVB) you’re not sure how to protect.
You’ve already noticed leaks, soggy spots, or weak pressure—symptoms a pro should diagnose.
Real Costs: Winterization, Start-Up, and “Oops” Repairs
Sprinkler winterization (blowout)
Typical residential (5–10 zones): 60–120
Larger systems or complex layouts: 120–200
Late-season or rush fee (in some markets): +20–50
Spring start-up and inspection
Controller programming, leak check, head adjustment: 70–150
Backflow preventer testing (if required by local code): 50–100
Common repair ranges if winter damage occurred
Backflow preventer repair or replacement: 150–800 (depends on type/brand)
Cracked PVC or poly pipe sections: 150–700
Valve replacement: 85–200 per valve
Broken sprinkler heads: 12–40 per head, plus labor
Reality check: one cracked backflow can blow past the cost of multiple years of professional winterizations. That’s why many homeowners with larger lawns simply budget for pro service every fall.
How to Decide in 60 Seconds (A Mini Checklist)
Did your area already see hard freezes? If yes, skip running the system; schedule a spring inspection.
Are freezes still coming? Consider a late blowout—pro recommended.
Do you have the right compressor, fittings, and confidence? If yes, DIY is doable—just mind the PSI.
Not sure about backflow type or how to isolate it? Hire a pro to avoid pricey mistakes.
FAQ Block: Quick Answers Homeowners Ask in March
Is it worth winterizing in March? If sustained freezes are still likely, a late blowout can help. If warming has settled in, prioritize a careful spring start-up and inspection.
Should I hire a professional to winterize my sprinkler system or DIY? If you’ve got the equipment and understand PSI limits and backflow protection, DIY is fine. Otherwise, hire a pro—especially for complex systems.
How much does professional service cost? Most homes land between 60–120 for winterization; large or complex systems can reach 200.Expect70–$150 for spring start-up.
Can I run my sprinklers in March to “check them”? In freeze-prone areas, don’t. Pressurizing frozen or partially frozen lines can cause cracks you can’t see—until your first big leak.
How do I spot damage early? Look for unexplained wet spots, hissing at the backflow, low pressure, spitting heads, or a controller that shows zones running but no water at the head.
What PSI should I use for a blowout? 50–60 PSI for most residential systems, never above 80 PSI. Air volume matters more than sheer pressure.
When should I schedule for next year? Aim to winterize a week or two before your area’s average first hard freeze (often October–November in many regions). Mark your calendar—your lawn (and wallet) will thank you.
If it’s March, you’re likely past the ideal winterization window, but you still have options. Protect what you can now, budget for a smart spring start-up, and plan early for fall. If you want it handled the right way—no guesswork, no cracked parts—Turfrain is here to help. Contact Us, and we’ll get your system squared away fast.
